Etikettarkiv: Vallgraven to Östra Hamngatan

District

Kvarteren Klensmeden, Manegen, Bastionen, Vattenkällan, Gamleport samt Kungsportsbron

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Episodes 37 to 41 stroll along the moat and the filled-in East Canal. There are reminders of the city’s military past in the shape of the former bastions, and of older types of entertainment like circuses and cinemas.

Episode 37: kv Klensmeden

District: Inom Vallgraven, from Vallgraven to Östra Hamngatan

Photo date: 1 and 3 May 2020

Here is another block that was split in two by a fire-break after 1792. The eastern half is today a shopping complex while the western part, especially along Östra Hamngatan, retains some of the old 19th century facades. Originally, all the houses were lower, though, no more than two storeys. In photos from the 1870s, the city looks so tiny.

There used to be many cinemas in Gothenburg and there was one in this block. With the advent of television and home videos, most of the cinemas went bankrupt and closed. In 1984 Cosmorama was turned into a regular theatre but that didn’t help and today it is a shop.

Next to it is the hulk of another Gothenburg stalwart, the Bräutigams bakery and coffee-shop. The house was built in 1911 and designed by Arvid Bjerke. The firm still exists but these days they only make sweets and chooclates, with a small outlet in Haga or seasonal pop-up booths. If you talk about the old coffee-shop, though, everyone will mention the live piano music for which it was famed, even when I was a kid.

Episode 38: kv Manegen

District: Inom Vallgraven, from Vallgraven to Östra Hamngatan

Photo date: 3 May 2020

History is rich in this block. The paddock at Östra Larmgatan 16 was set up in 1824, on the ruins of the old city wall, It operated for half a century and was apparently often let to travelling circuses. Around 1880 the horsey enterprise had to move to another paddock in Lorensberg, because August Abrahamson bought the property and put up a fabulous office and warehouse building on it. That house, designed by Adrian Peterson, is still standing and the facade is much the same even if the businesses in it come and go.

The building for the clerks’ union was designed by Hans Hedlund and built by Joachim Dähn. It was used for trade-union and political activities and also had a hotel. When the union moved out in the late 1980s, the University took over and refurbished the house. They are also long gone, however, and today it is used by the Jensen highschool-chain. Highschools is a booming and lucrative business in Sweden.

And the corner house at Östra Larmgatan 18 with the big round balcony was built in 1856 by August Krüger as a residential building. In the 1920s it was re-designed with a meeting hall for the Royal Bachelors Club and on the bottom floor a restaurant that has since given the popular name to the whole block: Gamle Port.

Episode 39: kv Bastionen

District: Inom Vallgraven, from Vallgraven to Östra Hamngatan

Photo date: 3 May 2020

The Palladium cinema closed in 2008, after 90 years and a plethora of blockbusters. I saw ”Raiders of the Lost Ark” here, laughed at Bruce Willis in ”Die Hard” when the sound system broke down (the scene with the screaming lady as the lift doors open to reveal the dead terrorist and ”now I have a machine gun ho-ho-ho” is very funny when completely silent), and goggled at the person cosplaying Gollum at the premiere of ”The Return of the King” in December 2003, among many, many other enjoyable cinema experiences (and some less enjoyable, like ”Sky Pirates” which we endured in the top floor annex Lilla Palladium).

The house itself was first put up in 1858. In 1917 it was rebuilt as a cinema, designed by Otto Dymling and P Nilsson. There were originally 1028 seats but during subsequent refurbishments, among other things for the Cinemascope screen in 1954, the number dwindled to just 700 when it closed.

Episode 40: kv Vattenkällan, kv Gamleport

District: Inom Vallgraven, from Vallgraven to Östra Hamngatan

Photo date: 22 March and 3-9 May 2020

The so-called Hennig House occupies all of the block called Old-gate, and it was built in 1846 from designs by Carl Georg Brunius. Textiles firm Johansson & Carlander (who also put their mark on the Sahlgren House at Norra Hamngatan) bought the house in 1885. The granite decorations were added in a 1920s refurbishment.

Centrumhuset occupies all of the block called The Water Well. It was designed by Nils Einar Eriksson and built in 1938 to house various businesses. And so it does to this day.

Between these two houses stands a statue of king Karl IX, father of Gustav II Adolf. He built the first town called Göteborg, on the north shore of river Göta Älv. The Danes promptly burned it down, though, and caused a lot of other mayhem in the first decade of the 17th century. The area between the houses also used to hold a water cistern and a loop of the East Canal that entered the moat between Old-gate and Bastion. You can see them in old photos and pictures, which also show the old houses in the Water Well block.

Episode 41: Kungsportsbron

District: Inom Vallgraven, from Vallgraven to Östra Hamngatan

Photo date: 22 March and 12 July 2020

In the 17th century, the city wall had three gates: the Old or Kings’s gate at this spot, the New or Queen’s gate in the east, and the Charles or Hållgård gate in the west. In Dahlberg’s drawings from those days, the gates look large and imposing, towering over the prancing dandies and dogs in the foreground. But looking at actual dimensions in reality, they must have been quite small, admitting one cart at a time.

This new Kingsgate Bridge from 1900 was designed by Eugen Thorburn. The granite is from Bohuslän and the grand candelabra were originally lit by gas. It must have geen really grand when it opened in 1901. Much better than the old wooden bridge a hundred years earlier and the narrow stone bridge it had just replaced.

Kvarteren Arkaden, Värnamo, Perukmakaren, Vallen, Synagogan

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Episodes 33 to 36 explore the mercantile history of downtown Gothenburg, and encounter the builders and architects that will be name-checked again and again in the series. There is also a tiny bit of Jewish history.

Episode 33: kv Arkaden

District: Inom Vallgraven, from Vallgraven to Östra Hamngatan

Photo date: 3 May 2020

We talk about destruction of the inner city and megalomaniac plans to put up hideous constructions where once stood quaint and pretty houses. It must have been just the same in 1898 when the 100-year-old houses in this block were torn down to make way for a fabulous new shopping centre, the Arcade.

The consul Gustaf Bolander together with some wealthy cronies had this wild idea and put it into action: to build a private street through a block with tall buildings and towering… well towers at the entrance. In the buildings should be shops and businesses, and a hotel. Being wealthy, they could put up the capital and hire architect Louis Enders to design the block.

In 1899 the eastern half was put up but the venture foundered and the western part was moved to Packhuskajen, with some modifications, and put up as the Hertzia House. And there we can still see what the former Arcade might have looked like, since the whole shebang was razed in 1972 and the current bland building put up instead. It does have an indoor street, though, and the clock pillar is supposed to echo the old towers. Sic transit gloria mundi.

Episode 34: kv Värnamo, kv Perukmakaren

District: Inom Vallgraven, from Vallgraven to Östra Hamngatan

Photo date: 3 May 2020

These were originally one block but after the devastating fire of 1792 it was decided to lay out a new street, Fredsgatan, as a future fire-break. Thus the block was split into two, Värnamo in the west and The Wig Maker in the east. All original buildings — well, original after 1792 — were destroyed in the blitz of the 1970s, for which no breaks had been emplaced.

Nordiska Kompaniet is a stupendous shopping mall in central Stockholm and this house here is the Gothenburg branch. But there was a department store in this block before NK moved in: Ferdinand Lundquist & Co. Mr Ferdinand started the shop in 1863 and in 1911 his sons took over. It started as a sort of interior design shop and expanded into a regular department store, taking over the whole block in the process. In 1967 it was sold to NK and then this box, typical of its time, was put up.

It is still the poshest and most expensive department store in Gothenburg. When I was a kid, I used to accompany my mother there and I remember there was a piano bar and a small stage in the restaurant on the top floor. The old vaults in the basement were more interesting but we didn’t go there often; I guess the clientele was less suitable for small children.

Episode 35: kv Vallen

District: Inom Vallgraven, from Vallgraven to Östra Hamngatan

Photo date: 1 May 2020

Gothenburg was built as a fortified city, to protect the lucrative trade inside from the marauding Danes. So the city was surrounded by a wall, itself surrounded by a moat (still extant), plus an outer glacis and other defence works. The wall, originally earthen but later made of proper stone, was reinforced with several bastions. All sorts of 17th century defensive works were constructed too, ravelin, caponnier and submarine obstacles in the river.

In the first decade of the 19th century all this was hopelessly obsolete and an impediment to the city’s progress. The Crown allowed the city to tear down the walls and bastions, thus opening up the cramped city to lovely vistas and untrammeled expansion. It took some decades but here along the moat were finally put up these fine residential buildings.

The block name still recalls the old fortifications. Unlike many of the neighbouring blocks, houses here were mostly designed by P J Rapp or Gustaf Jährig. For the inner city, I used the excellent source ”Hus för hus i Göteborgs stadskärna” by Gudrun Lönnroth. It gives a short presentation of the buildings and historical tidbits associated with them.

Episode 36: kv Synagogan

District: Inom Vallgraven, from Vallgraven to Östra Hamngatan

Photo date: 1 May 2020

The posh houses along the moat continue, again designed by August Krüger. He was one of the biggest builders at the time, along with e.g. Rapp and Dähn, and then F O Peterson whose company is still very much active in Gothenburg. In Krüger’s time, many of the builders were also architects and designed their own constructions. But there were also regular architects, for example Carlberg, Gegerfeldt, Enders, Peterson and Hedlund. These names crop up all the time in my sources.

Until the end of the 18th century, pretty much everyone who wasn’t Lutheran was forbidden to live in Sweden. But then Jews were allowed to settle, officially, and they soon became an important and exuberant part of city life in Gothenburg. Not only as businessmen but as bringers of culture and wit to the lugubrious Swedes (and English, Scots and Germans).

In the 1850s, August Abrahamson bought this strech of waterfront with a mind to build a proper synagogue. The block was built as one design entity and is pretty much unchanged since those days. The synagogue is still in use but with an increasingly tight security perimeter around. We might have escaped Hitler but in these latter days, anti-semitism is on the rise again.

Kvarteren Göta Källare, Sockerbruket, Slusskvarnen, Härbärget samt Brunnsparken

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Episodes 29 to 32 look at the so-called hotel area in district Inom Vallgraven. Four hotels or ghosts of hotels, old, new and so new they haven’t been built yet. There is also a vivid reminder that devastating fires are not a thing of the past.

Episode 29: kv Göta Källare

District: Inom Vallgraven, from Vallgraven to Östra Hamngatan

Photo date: 17 November 2019

A very short video for a tiny block consisting of just one building. Until 1873 the water-mill-cum-lock could be said to belong to it too. In the 1920s, the hotel was bought by the Swedish America Line for offices and the four sculptures around the main entrance were added. The artist was Johan Axel Wetterlund.

Episode 30: kv Sockerbruket and Brunnsparken

District: Inom Vallgraven, from Vallgraven to Östra Hamngatan

Photo date: 1 May and 12 July 2020

In the very centre of the fortress-city were two small islands in the Main Canal. On one of them was built a sugar factory and a bakery and on the other a weighing apparatus for iron (järnvåg) and later a park and a spa. A fountain with a naked girl was put up in 1883, right on the spot of the old iron-scales. The scales were moved to Pustervik in 1802 or thereabouts and were dismantled 90 years later. The memory lingers in names like Järntorget and Järnvågsbron.

Episode 31: kv Slusskvarnen

District: Inom Vallgraven, from Vallgraven to Östra Hamngatan

Photo date: 1 May 2020

Several hotels were established in this area when the railway opened and when the mass-emigration to America started in the mid-1800s. The hotel in this block, built in the colourful 1980s, is a replacement for a previous hotel in the block just to the west. August Krüger’s fine end-piece makes a splendid view from across the moat.

Episode 32: kv Härbärget

District: Inom Vallgraven, from Vallgraven to Östra Hamngatan

Photo date: 3 May 2020

Well, here I ramble on at length about all the decorations on this 50-year-old house — which is currently being very slowly demolished. The corner at Fredsgatan-Drottninggatan has been a vacant lot for some months now. It’s a bit like the city was like 50 years ago. I wonder what will rise up instead, another Tower of Sauron?