Etikettarkiv: river

Kvarteren Örnen, Svanen, Geten, Bleket, Gumsen, Lammet

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Episodes 107 to 110 explore the industrial and social heritage in the middle part of Gårda. Most of it has been redeveloped, not once but twice – or more.

Episode 107: kv Örnen, kv Svanen

District: Gårda

Photo date: 14 March 2021

Almost all of the old industrial estate Gårda was demolished in the 1960s, to make way for the new motorway that bisects the eastern part of Gothenburg. New houses were erected in the 1980s, as close to the motorway as was deemed safe. Some of the earliest skyscrapers in Gothenburg were built here at that time too, now long since over-shadowed.

The middle part of district Gårda has been turned into an American-type commercial district with skyscraper offices. All this on marine and glacial clays next to a small river! The newest skyscrapers were finished in 2023 and are documented in Intermission part III.

Episode 108: kv Geten, kv Bleket

District: Gårda

Photo date: 14 March 2021

Just a handful of old houses in Gårda were preserved, listed or turned into a museum. Once the corona pandemic was over and forgotten, other museums opened up too, but the Belt Factory is still very much worth a visit! It’s full of old looms and stuff, and they sell some of their products too. Very useful when making tolkienist outfits.

Episode 109: kv Gumsen

District: Gårda

Photo date: 14 March 2021

The old Gårda was not just an industrial estate but also contained many tenement houses for its workers and their families. The school here was closed in 1977 – some ten years after the motorway right next to it had been opened! How could they let children roam there for so long? Anyway, the building seems not to have much of a future.

The parking garage is one of at least three from the post-modernist 1980s that I’ve seen so far on my ramblings. This one was decorated by Klas-Göran Tinbäck who appararently is still alive, at the time of writing (2023).

The firm Tomten not only manufactured detergents etc, but for some reason also sparklers. They are still known as Tomtebloss in Swedish and are branded enthuiastically at Christmas.

Episode 110: kv Lammet

District: Gårda

Photo date: 14 March 2021

Many of the factories in Gårda were built along the Mölndal Creek or River. It was used as a canal for transporting goods and also as a ditch for effluvia. Further up-river were several businesses that have left a very unpleasant chemical legacy in the river bottom. Dredging is quite hazardous but necessary, as the lower part of the river is very flood prone.

The Wool Yarn Factory has its own page at the Higab site.

Kvarteren Vesta, Vulkan, Diana, Venus, Ceres, Merkur, Fyrkanten, Bobinen, Dymling

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Episodes 103 to 106 take a stroll around North Gårda where the only major decorations are on a tram shed from the 1980s.

Episode 103: kv Vesta, kv Vulkan, kv Diana

District: Gårda

Photo date: 23 December 2020

District Gårda is an industrial estate from the late 1800s, with residential areas in the south. Factories, schools, pollution, children, railway, more factories… and then in the 1960s the eastern half of the district was eradicated when the new motorway was laid out there. Many of the remaining houses were condemned because they were too close to the noisy, polluting and dangerous traffic. Some of the southernmost buildings were saved and even refurbished recently, but most of it has been completely redeveloped. The area looks nothing like old photographs!

The rusty skyscraper called Gårda Vesta was designed by White Arkitekter, still going strong with modern but boring materials. They meant the rust to symbolise the industrial heritage of this district, Gårda. Or perhaps they were just a little bit passé since that particular cladding seems to have fallen out of favour rapidly, after being very in for about five years.

The other blocks in this episode were also modern when they were built, from the 1960s onwards. At Diana, after this video was made a controversial artist was given free reign with a firewall and created a huge vagina mural. Recently, the whole modernist building was torn down and something else will take its place, I guess. Perhaps another skyscraper?

Episode 104: kv Venus, kv Ceres

District: Gårda

Photo date: 23 December 2020

Soon after I started working at Bergab, these modern houses were put up across the river. The foundation works were extensive: it took three combined piles to reach layers that were stiffer than mush! The low-lying area here under the hill to the east is made up of up to 80m or more thick glacial clays, overlain by marine clays and riverine sediments. Marine clays are notoriously tricky: add enough water, give it a little shake, and the solid ground turns into water. Just like ketchup. There’s a scary movie from a Norwegian landslide in thixotropic clays.

The tram museum is great! The depot was built in 1930 and the museum moved in in 1989. Next to it was the old bus garage that was torn down in 2001 to make way for residential houses. The garage was really ugly. At the museum you can not only look at the trams but also rent them. We did this for a science fiction convention some years ago, it was very popular.

Gothenburgers are inveterate punners. All major landmarks get inofficial names like fr’instance Hedendomen for the Catholic church (a pun on ”heathenry” and ”the cathedral next to Heden”). The lamellar house in this block was built for the electricity board in 1960, and was for some reason called Elysépalatset. It was of course immediately renamed El-o-lyse-palatset, ”the electricity and lighting palace”.

Episode 105: kv Merkur

District: Gårda

Photo date: 23 August 2020, 23 December 2020 and 20 March 2021

When every other town and city dismantled their trams in the 1950s and 60s, Gothenburg retained them. Now, every other town and city build new tramways, for some reason. Living in a city where trams have always been part of everyday infrastructure life, it seems much more convenient with buses that can move around obstacles like other vehicles ahead, or downed powerlines. But the trams do have their charm, I guess, and they are a big part of the spirit of Gothenburg.

Tram lines have expanded over the years, and the number of trams too. They all need to be serviced and in the mid-1980s the depot at Stampen was much too small and a new tram shed built across the creek, here at city block Mercury. The architects were Clas Dreijer and Bengt Wallin, working for the ABAKO office. They won the Kasper Salin award in 1985, an award for ”the best building of the year”. In one of my sources, ”Staden, platserna och husen” by Claes Caldenby et al, it says the guy leaning out of a window depicts Domenico Inganni who helped finalise the deocrations. But who were Graham and Åke, whose names are on one of the medallions?

Somewhere on the building there is a plaque commemorating the award but it is not visible from the outer perimeter fence. No trespassing! I mailed them asking for permission to enter and document the cartouches but never got a reply. So I had to stand on the other side of the motorway with the big camera! And again when the building at city block Eagle was finally finished!

Episode 106: kv Fyrkanten, kv Bobinen, kv Dymling

District: Gårda

Photo date: 14 March 2021

Fire stations were put up all over the city in the early 1900s but were then closed again around the 1970s to 80s, when big centralised stations like this one were built. And they no longer house only the fire brigade but all the rescue services. This central rescue services station was put up in 1988, with typical tile decorations on the facade. The architects were FFNS West, whom I had never heard of before because they have turned into Sweco, the big civil engneering company we often do business with.

The 1880s is when textiles became big in Gothenburg. In the marxist 1970s, all the talk was about the proletariat working in the shipyards and how socialism, even communism, was what made Gothenburg if not great then at least remarkable. In fact, the local industry was first based on timber and joinery and then came the textiles. Those workers were the ones who first unionised, but it didn’t take at first, apparently not until the temperance movement had done its thing.

At Åvägen 6 we see the remains of Gårda Fabriker, one of the original textile factories in Gårda. This one made underwear. The current buildings were put up in the early to mid 1900s, designed by Ernst Krüger and Carl Ritzén. Much rebuilding has been going on since the 1990s, and most of the entire area has faced a complete redevelopment from 1965, still ongoing. The Bobbin, for example, was built in 2007. It appears the site held a starch factory that burned down in 1945, and then Semrén+Månsson designed the current buildings.

Kvarteren Jankowitz, Warschava, Stora Bält, Lilla Bält, Halmstad, Lund samt Mosaiska begravningsplatsen

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Episodes 99 to 102 explore an area with a long history of public transport, and death. Plus school-children!

Episode 99: kv Jankowitz, kv Warschava

District: Stampen

Photo date: 6 September 2020

Polish names are confusing to other languages. Warzaw, Warschau, Varschawa… all kinds of spellings are supplied over the years. Anyway, one of my sources is a book celebrating 50 years of Gothenburg’s tram services, a delightful history describing the first private English company, the little tram-cars drawn by poor suffering horses up the hills (hats were supplied in the summer), ground and cable works during electrification in 1902, the city taking over the service, and the various lines which you had to buy separate tickets for. Most of lines are still in operation today, two have been dismantled due to cars and several new ones have been added.

And the trams needed servicing at depots: the first one was situated here, in a richly decorated building that included offices and workshops as well as the car shed itself. As the services and cars grew, so did the depot, adding a bus garage across the creek, and another depot out in Majorna. After the publication of the book in 1929, even more depots have been built and of course this first one was dismantled when it moved across the creek in 1986 to where it still is today.

Next to the tram shed the city built a rather large school. Yngve Rasmussen designed both houses and judging by old photographs they looked very similar. The school still stands even though it too has become too small and the kids are spread out in nearby buildings. Bergab operates in the building next door and we have a fine view of their study halls. At graduation, the noise can be quite deafening.

Episode 100: kv Stora Bält and Mosaiska begravningsplatsen

District: Stampen

Photo date: 6 September 2020

Stampgatan 15 is the home of Bergab. The company first started in a small office at Odinsgatan 22, spent some years up on the hill at St Pauligatan 33 and moved to the current address in 1994. Twenty years ago, a branch in Stockholm opened and it has since grown bigger than the Gothenburg head office. We work with engineering geology and groundwater. The house itself is not much to talk about: it was built in the 1960s for the tram service employees, has no decorations, and has quite poor foundations next to the flood-prone creek.

The Jewish cemetery is more interesting. It was located right next to the cemetery for the artillery garrison and for prisoners. This latter cemetery was later built over by round train sheds and roads. The Jewish cemetery was recently given an arboreal make-over so you can see it again. I have a fine view of it from my office window and in 2008-2009 took a picture of the view every morning. The moorish-style chapel was designed by P J Rapp and built in 1864.

Episode 101: kv Lilla Bält

District: Stampen

Photo date: 6 September 2020

The name of this property has changed a lot over the centuries, reflecting ownership and businesses. Before Stampen was built up the district used to be called Åkareheden (Drover’s Field) and the area around this block has long been called Svingeln, whatever that means (consensus on etymology has yet to be reached). The property itself has been called Sahlefelt’s Land in the early 1600s, Burggrevelyckan when a magistrate with this title rented it, Director Bauer’s Land in the early 1700s and Fredriksdal in the late 1700s, before the Fürstenbergs changed it to Oscarsdal. Funnily enough, a sports bar at Ranängsgatan calls itself ”Olivedal” which is the name of a completely different district!

Episode 102: kv Halmstad, kv Lund

District: Stampen

Photo date: 6 September 2020

Before public transport and the off-ramps from the nearby motorway demanded space, the street here was rather idyllic, with a women’s prison and small industries on the east side and train sheds, a farm and a public bath on the west side, two whole blocks called Narva and Klissow. At the end of the street, a little bridge ran over a reed-filled riverlet to district Olskroken. It’s really difiicult to picture nowadays. The big motorway connecting Malmö and Stockholm was built in the late 1960s, just where the little bridge was, and the whole area was given over to streets. The river itself was led into a culvert and disappeared under the motorway. Curious factoid: the motorway and its ramps and flyovers were designed in the early 1960s. In the middle of building work, there was a referendum that changed Sweden from a left-driving to a right-driving country. Meaning all the flyovers and ramps now seem wrongly designed!

Until a few years ago, the bus and tram stop called Svingeln was distributed all over the area here, because of the old road layout and the narrow section between the remaining buildings and the railway. But then the officials had a brain-wave and decided to make one unified stop, for easy and safe access when changing lines. So now, buses, trams, bikes, cars and pedestrians have to cross one another’s lanes several times and just a year after the re-development there was a fatal accident… Sheesh.

Neither of the houses in these blocks are decorated, so there isn’t much narration in the video. Both are managed by Higab which is the city’s property company. Their website lists information about the properties too: Gullbergsbrohemmet and Hantverkshuset. The former was originally designed by Bengt Wilhelm Carlberg, the city engineer, and consisted of two square buildings, still extant but with several additions over the centuries. The latter was built in the late 1960s, on land that consisted of an old river bed overlying marine and glacial clays. Not the best sort of foundation!

Kvarteren Brunnbäck, Stångebro, Breitenfeld, Chemnitz, Bangården samt Folkungabroarna och Gamla Kyrkogården

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Episodes 95 to 98 find very few decorations on facades from the 1760s to the 2010s.

Episode 95: kv Brunnbäck and Folkungabroarna

District: Stampen

Photo date: 12 July and 27 August 2020

These tram tracks are the newest that have been built in Gothenburg. They run from the block called Brunnbäck due south past Ullevi and Scandinavium to Korsvägen. Bergab helped in a very small measure with the site investigations – the clay is very deep here but there are some low outcrops of rock to the south. But during the 1923 exhibition, a temporary track was laid out near here that ran from the station to the exhibition area.

Along the canal clustered small houses, cottages and shacks that contained industries and manufacturies like cloth-making, dyeries, distilleries and breweries, Further along were tanneries, cigar-factories and soap-makers. Downstream from these industries, the local inhabitants took their drinking water right from the river…

There’s not much to say about the current buildings in the block. The street Baldersgatan was meant to continue across the Old Cemetery to the Weir, Baldersplatsen, where the slaughterhouse was moved in the early 1800s.

Episode 96: kv Stångebro and Gamla Kyrkogården

District: Stampen

Photo date: 4 September 2020

The S:t Mary Church was designed by Carl Wilhelm Carlberg and could have been designed today rather than 200 years ago, given its total lack of decorations. The Paupers’ House is also mostly devoid of decorations because that was the style when it was designed by Carlberg’s father Bengt. When new paupers’ institutions were built, first at Smedjegatan and then next to the railway station, this house became an old-age home. It was moved to a grand new house by Slottsskogen in 1896, as related in part 291 of this series.

The Old Cemetery was designed by the same Carl Carlberg. In the 1880s, a new cemetery was opened right next to where I live, the East Cemetery, and no new interments were made in the Stamp Cemetery – until the last decade or two, when the lawn between the old graves and the Paupers’ House has started filling with new urn burial graves. Where shall people tan and picnic now?

Episode 97: kv Breitenfeld

District: Stampen

Photo date: 28 August 2020

The whole block was built up in the early 1900s, but in the 1960s it was decided to tear down all the buildings on the east side, and in 1990 half the block on the west side was also replaced. Why? Were the old foundations that bad?

Episode 98: kv Chemnitz, kv Bangården

District: Stampen

Photo date: 29 August and 1 September 2020

At the north end of the Chemnitz block was apparently a small farm called Gummero (Lady’s Rest), to complement Gubbero (Gent’s Rest) across the creek to the north. The only place I’ve come across this name is at the Old Gothenburg site.

The Railway Yard as it looks today was designed by the White architects and completed in 2010. At Bergab, we could follow the construction work, and the repair works that were immediately started on the facades when principal building was completed and tenants had moved in. The businesses on the ground floor all have the new stylish interior design with raw concrete walls and fully exposed ducts in the ceilings. Yes, I think these houses are some of the worst-designed I’ve ever seen or heard about.

Kvarteren Gestilren, Herrevadsbro, Lena, Åsle, Lützen, Brännkyrka

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In episodes 90 to 94 we leave the original city and its defence works, to look at one of the first industrial districts and suburbs.

Episode 90: kv Gestilren

District: Stampen

Photo date: 23 August 2020

Our first block in the district called Stampen is also one of the most modern, with significant inustrial heritage, as narrated in the video. It needed quite a lot of narration, as these semi-modern houses have a surprising amount of decorations. Actually, given the time of construction (late 1980s), the amount of decoration is quite typical. In a reaction to the austere functionalism and economising of the 1960s and 1970s, some post-modern architects started added extraneous details like tiles, pillars, bay windows, pyramids and outright sculptures to their facades and roofs. There are a handful of these houses in Gothenburg, almost all of them public buildings like a tram deopt, a fire station or a parking garage.

Try as I might, the only information I can find about the modern buildings is an old zoning document that says the property was owned by Kullenbergs. The Old Gothenburg site relates the saga of this company that was very active during the 1970s and 80s and then went bust in the 1990s bubble. But what is this: in Intermission Part 3 is a photo of a hand with the name Lars Spaak! He made some of the railings, and the bronze pillar at Adler Salivus gata 11. On his website he also mentions architect Ylva Ljungström.

That site and Fredberg also have interesting things to say about the orphanage, with illustrations. The current building was designed by Adolf Edelsvärd.

Episode 91: kv Herrevadsbro

District: Stampen

Photo date: 23 August 2020

In high school I studied languages, latin even. But I didn’t know what career I wanted to pursue after graduation so in 1985 and 1986 I took complementary courses in maths, physics and typing at the Odin School. Even then it was old, even if it was modern when it was built. The architect was G A Falk. (The courses turned out to be very useful as I eventually became a geologist, and with the then-unknown internet, typing skillz have become essential.)

The water-course to the south, the Paupers’ Canal, is a man-made canal to supply water to the moat, and to allow barge access to the Mölndal River. Before it was dug, in the mid-1600s, one of the arms of the river ran right through this block. The district was for the most part a reedy marshland in the beginning. The river arm remained as a swampy backwater for almost two centuries. A fitting place for the knacker!

When I went to the school here, the land between it and the canal was un-built. The hotel at the west end of Gestilren had been built, and the rest of Gestilren was a construction site. The buses to Partille, where I lived then, had stopped by the old Pripps plank but had just been moved to the brand new arcade along the north side of the hotel. Now there are no bus stops along Odinsgatan as all bus routes have been moved away from it. Air quality along this road is notoriously bad and this was one of the remedial measures taken, others being outlawing the use of snow tires and restricting access. This latter measure is a direct reversal of policy as compared with the 1950s and 60s when major motorways and universal access for cars ruled!

Episode 92: kv Lena

District: Stampen

Photo date: 23 August 2020

The newspaper house is a fine example of modernism, or functionalism as it is called in Sweden. It was designed in 1933 by Ragnar Ossian Swensson, who some 20 years earlier was heavily into late-national romanticism, and 1920s classicism in that decade. A fashion-conscious gentleman!

Göteborgs-Posten was the city’s biggest newspaper until the internet killed that business some 20 years ago. The house here was built for the presses as well as the editorial offices, but in the 1970s bigger presses were needed and a new industrial building put up across the river. In the archives of the company I work for, Bergab, are documents from the site investigations for this buildings. Half a decade ago or so, that house was torn down as presses are no longer needed. Thousands of trees thank the internet for their lives!

The other house in this block is a formerly functionalist house like the ones around Odinsplatsen. It was completely redesigned some 20 years ago. Neither the 1930s nor the 2000s styles permit decorations.

Episode 93: kv Åsle

District: Stampen

Photo date: 23 August 2020

Before 1900, the north side of this street was un-built; in fact, until the railway was laid out on recently reclaimed land, this was all reedy marshland along a bay of the river. Louis Enders designed this workers’ tenement for the Pripps brewery in 1898. Apart from this block and the Jewish cemetary, all the other houses were built in the 1930s.

Episode 94: kv Lützen, kv Brännkyrka and Odinsplatsen

District: Stampen

Photo date: 23 August 2020

Odinsplatsen was planned in 1866 but the north side was only built up in the late 1930s. It was a centre for car salesmen, mechanics and garages. When the car salesmen moved out in the 1970s, bikers and strip-clubs moved in. Twenty years ago the entire area was rebuilt and/or gentrified.

The current buildings in the Brännkyrka block are from the 1960s and 1990s. The imposing facade along the Canal is completely different from the old paupers’ school that stood here until the 1960s. Johan Willin was a very charitable priest in the 1700s who started a free school for poor children, an institution that later morphed into the compulsory state school system instated in 1842.