Kvarteren Furiren, Trumslagaren, Matrosen, Kadetten, Fanjunkaren

Episodes 247 to 250 in the west end of Haga consist of a mix of listed 1800s houses and Post-Modernism from the 1980s-1990s.

Episode 247: kv Furiren

District: Haga

Photo date: 7 May 2022

In all my sources, this block is the one showcased when conservation in Haga is discussed. If all other blocks were levelled, this one at least would contain examples of all types of houses still remaining after fires and waves of re-development have swept through Haga.

Episode 248: kv Trumslagaren, Kv Matrosen

District: Haga

Photo date: 8 May 2022

Car parks from the 1980s and on can sometimes have surprising decorations, like the one here. But mostly they are just functional, meaning drab. They need good foundations too, of which the older houses in the west end of Haga sadly lacked. So when the latest zoning regulation was made in 1984, it was mostly to replace rotting wooden hulks with modern concrete castings. At least the houses on the hill here were founded on solid rock so they could remain. For now…

Episode 249: kv Kadetten

District: Haga

Photo date: 8 May 2022

Landsvägsgatan was the main western thouroughfare into Gothenburg until the late 1800s when Linnégatan was built. Nowadays it is only a thouroughfare for bikes, which whizz by dangerously and copiously. Watch out! In olden days the street was called Tullgatan because of the toll boom near Järntorget: you had to pay a tax to be able to sell your wares in the city, and you were only allowed to sell wares in specific cities, so the Crown could have its cut.

Episode 250: kv Fanjunkaren

District: Haga

Photo date: 8 May 2022

Zoning regulations for this part of Gothenburg have been made in 1866, 1878, 1893, 1933, 1934, 1941, 1942, 1954, 1967 and 1984.

Kvarteren Kanonen, Kruthornet, Majoren, Kaptenen, Soldaten samt Skansberget

In episodes 238 to 242 the focus is on oldey-timey fortifications, the Caponier and Fortress Kronan.

Episode 238: kv Kanonen

District: Haga

Photo date: 23 April 2022

Most of this block was re-developed in the 1980s but the quaint facades along Haga Nygata were preserved – much to the delight of all the cruise ship tourists who visit in summertime.

Episode 239: kv Kruthornet

District: Haga

Photo date: 23 April 2022

Sometimes people ask what houses I’ve looked at are my favourites. I usually answer it’s the ones with subtle surprises, that you don’t notice until you actually look closely at the facades. And the Abako-designed house comprising this whole block is a prime example of this. Yes, the Post-Modernist style is a violent break from the general 19th-century look of Haga, but it’s hard not to be delighted by it, so over the top. And then, if you step closer, you see the reliefs… Artist Pelle P adorned other facades too, like the Guldheden church in part 476 of this project.

Episode 240: kv Majoren

District: Haga

Photo date: 30 April 2022

Are libraries a thing of the past? I do believe so; listening to young people on the town who brag about not ever having read a book and being disgusted by the very idea, it seems easy-access knowledge is no longer wanted. Maybe AI is convenient and all that, but I think it’s fun to make and find out things myself. Anyway, the early users of this library here had no other options and made good use of the facilities.

Episode 241: kv Kaptenen

District: Haga

Photo date: 30 April 2022

On a map you can see how narrow these north-south running blocks are, as they follow the line of the old caponier that connected fortress Kronan with the rest of Gothenburg in the olden days. Having heard the stories about people falling into the stagnant water here, I always thought a caponier was a sort of mini-moat. When it was eventually filled in, the land was only deemed suitable for poor-housing, which the Dickson Foundation snapped up in the 1870s before selling it to the Burmans. Might one suspect poor geotechnical conditions?

Episode 242: kv Soldaten, Skansberget

District: Haga

Photo date: 14 May 2022

The little square in Soldaten is the centre of Haga, where you might find market stalls, buskers and other events. In all seasons! But in October-November and January-February the Gothenburg weather is not amenable to outdoors activities with items that aren’t waterproof…

My memories of Skansen Kronan are rather sketchy, and involve the old military museum with slightly spooky mannequins dressed in 19th century uniforms, and waffles. The latter still remains, in the shape of a shed which serves pricey pastries that you really need after climbing all those stairs. Club Cosmos celebrated its 50th anniversary in the fortress, but that was before my time.

Kvarteren Glimmingehus, Sturefors, Örup, Svaneholm, Kastellholm, Visborg

Episodes 131 to 135 enter the stone house city west of Heden.

Episode 131: kv Glimmingehus, kv Sturefors

District: Vasastaden (formerly Lorensberg)

Photo date: 21 February 2021

What’s in a name? In this part of the city, that is a very valid question. When the area south of the moat was developed in the late-1860s onwards, the western and oldest part was called Vasastaden after our father-king Gustaf. The eastern part, where we are now, was called Lorensberg after a famous entertainment property next to Glimmingehus. These district names are still reflected in the ordnance survey map. But the city has changed its administrative zones several times and now most of the combined districts is called Vasastaden. A clue to the original zoning is the names of the blocks themselves: in Lorensberg they are named after castles, in Vasastaden after trees.

Glimmingehus was first built up in the late 1880s, but only the courthouse remains. It was designed by Hans Hedlund and built in 1887. It was used as a courthouse until 2010 when it was turned into a highschool. To the right of it was a girls’ school that looks fabulous on old photos but it was replaced by offices and parking garage in the 1960s. The paddock to the left of it was replaced in the 1930s. Until I started reading up on local history, I had no idea there had been paddocks in the middle of the city.

In Sturefors, all the grand 1880s houses were torn down in the 1960s, for some reason. Of the new houses from that swinging era, the southern end house from 1960 was designed by Helge Zimdal, Avenyn 32 by Per-Axel Björk was built in 1967, and the rest of the block from 1965 came from the pen of F Löfberg. And by the way, the Sturefors castle is in Östergötland and was built by the noble Sture family around the year 1600, says Wikipedia.

Episode 132: kv Örup

District: Vasastaden (formerly Lorensberg)

Photo date: 21 February 2021

In architectural circles of 130 years ago, this block was nicknamed ”Adrianopel”, after big-name architect Adrian Peterson who designed these houses along Avenyn. The builder was Nils Andersson & Co and the first houses went up in 1881. At that time, the dominant style was Neo-Renaissance with lavish, I mean really lavish, decorations all over the facades. Cartouches, festoons, faces, atlants, lions, cornucopias… It takes a long time to walk around blocks with preserved 1880s facades. And it’s better to have a camera with a proper zoom to capture all the tiny details along the roof.

Only the properties at the north end of the block were replaced in the 1960s razing mania. Lorensbergsgatan 1 was designed by Owe Svärd and built in 1964, and numbers 3-5 were replaced in the 1970s. These properties were first owned by the Malmsjö family, who ran a piano factory at the eastern end of Vasagatan. Johan Gustaf Malmsjö started the factory in 1847 and it ran on until 1962 when it moved to Arvika and production ceased in 1978.

Episode 133: kv Svaneholm

District: Vasastaden (formerly Lorensberg)

Photo date: 19 December 2020

Here is a block with styles spanning a century. The house at Kristinelundsgatan 16 is the oldest, designed by Belfrage & Franck and built in 1879. The house next to it was built four years later. In 1930, part of the vacant lot after the tobacco factory was filled with a house designed by Nernst Hanson, at the tail end of 1920s Classicism. And finally, at the north end of the block a modern office building designed by the Tengbom bureau was put up in 1977. Though the style seems to look towards the 1980s and Post-Modernism.

Episode 134: kv Kastellholm

District: Vasastaden (formerly Lorensberg)

Photo date: 14 November 2020

The winds of change have swept through this block several times. First the farms and plantations along Södra Vägen had to go when Malmsjö’s piano factory was established here in the mid-1800s. Then came the French quarter in 1875, in splendid French Neo-Renaissance style. The houses at Södra Vägen 7-11 were designed by Hanson & Löfmark and put up in 1903. After a respite of some 30 years, it was time for the next redevelopment: on the site of the demolished piano factory, at Södra Vägen 13, a tenement building by Gunnar Hoving was built in 1931, and in 1939 the corner houses along Avenyn were replaced by splendid Modernist buildings, the north one by A M Stark and the south one designed by Nils Olsson. Olsson’s house is the one with the cinema, which is forever imprinted in my memory as where I first saw ”Snow White”.

The northeastern corner house was built in 1956, from designs by Erik Ahlsén, and long held the offices for the insurance company Folksam. Their logo spun on a spiral-shaped sign on the roof until just recently. Finally, the middle of the block along Avenyn was replaced with the current houses in 1969. Numbers 6 and 8 were designed by Johan Tuvert and numbers 10 and 12 by the Contekton bureau. Phew, so much name-checking!

The burger joint changed owners a couple of months after I photographed it, and was immediately repainted. So the winds of change still whistle briskly around the corners of this block.

Episode 135: kv Visborg

District: Vasastaden (formerly Lorensberg)

Photo date:11 October 2020

Until Sweden was pulled out of the dismal poverty that had been our lot until the early 1900s, vermin was a terrible problem. In 1934, just as politicians started flexing their muscles for raising the standard of living that became a mania of urban renewal thirty years later, the anti-vermin company Anticimex was started. Their first enemy was the horrible bed bug, today making an unwelcome comeback in Swedish homes and hotels.

Before city block Visborg was built, this was a farm called Mariefred, and it remained at the east end of the block as the western house was put up in the late 1870s. The western house was designed in elaborate Neo-Renaissance style by Carl Fahlström. The remaining farm was bought in 1910, when the eastern half of the block was built. The basement towards Avenyn has been restaurant premises for a hundred years. In 1971, Gothenburg’s first pizzeria opened here and we sometimes went there when I was a kid. Yum.