Kvarteren i Övre Johanneberg och Chalmers

Episodes 209 to 212 explore two separate bodies of architecture: one seminal Modernist group of buildings on a hill, and one agglomeration of academia in a valley.

Episode 209: Övre Johanneberg

District: Johanneberg

Photo date: 18 August 2021

In this Modernist dreamscape, every house is its own block: Hämplingen, Snöskatan, Strömstaren, Staren, Stjärtmesen, Lövsångaren, Berglärkan, Blåhaken, Sädesärlan, Steglitsan, Tornsvalan, Rödhaken, Flugsnapparen, Rörsångaren, Klippduvan, Ringtrasten, Alsiskan, Pilfinken and Snösparven.

If Albert Lilienberg was the frontman for 1920s Classicism in Gothenburg, his counterpart for Modernism was Uno Åhrén. As soon as he became planning director in 1927 he ushered in the new era, which really took off in the mid-1930s. Upper Johanneberg is one of the finest examples of early Modernism in Gothenburg. A quick search doesn’t say much about the architects themselves but Erik Friberger designed the lower houses west of Gibraltargatan, says the conservation paper on page 141.

Episode 210: kv Talltitan – Chalmers part 1

District: Johanneberg

Photo date: 28 August 2021

If Poseidon and Gustav II Adolf are the physical icons of Gothenburg, Chalmers is their spiritual counterpart. It is a sprawling agglomeration of buildings that in the latest decades also has colonised the northern shore of Göta Älv. Chalmerists, i.e. the students, uphold the mercantile, engineering and clubs&orders ideals of the city’s past.

Until 1962, Chalmers ran its own architectural bureau, naturally headed by the current professor of architecture. Just after the war, this was Melchior Wernstedt who between 1949 and 1960 designed the Gustaf Dahlén Hall, the power central, the students’ union house, the high energy bunker and the library. He also oversaw the construction of the ship’s trial building in 1940. He was succeeded by Helge Zimdal who in 1968 designed the architecture and civil engineering blocks down in the valley. Jan Wallinder was professor of ”formlära” at the time and he designed the administration building and the Palmstedt hall by the campus entrance in 1961.

There was another growth spurt in the 1990s and again in recent years. The students’ union house received an extension designed by Gert Wingårdh in 2000 and the Johanneberg Science Park was built in the last five years. The northern red house acts as a link to the Zimdal buildings, much like the Park itself is a link between academia and industry. It was designed by the Tengbom bureau who also designed the parking garage next to it. The White bureau didn’t want to be upstaged so they designed the rounded southern buildings.

Episode 211: kv Talltitan – Chalmers part 2

District: Johanneberg

Photo date: 28 August 2021

When Chalmers was still a private vocational school, it held an architectural competition for their new property in Gibraltar. The winners in 1921 were Arvid Fuhre, Hugo Jahnke, Conny Nyquist and Karl Samuelsson. They designed the first big physics building Origo and the smaller temple-like chemistry building next to it, in finest red-brick 1920s Classicism. Along the now-hidden main facade of the Origo building they placed medallions of famous Swedish scientists: Svante Arrhenius, Anders Ångström, Johan Carl Wilcke, Anders Celsius, Torbern Bergman, Carl Wilhelm Scheele, Jöns Jacob Berzelius and Alfred Nobel.

The physics and chemistry departments soon needed a lot more space and Klas Anshelm designed the big brick buildings in 1960, since added to even further. The lecture halls and big red-brick buildings along Gibraltargatan were built in the late 1960s, early 1970s too.

The HSB Living Lab at the south end of the lab buildings is a temporary structure – what it says on the tin, a lab for living in a house. The plans are dated 2016 and the architect is Tengbom. So I guess they will soon pick up their lab and move it somewhere else. The Gibraltar Guest House is also a temporary structure, according the the current zoning plan. The lodgings along the ship’s trial were built in the early 2000s.

As a aside, I can add that my master’s thesis dealt with the gabbro underlying much of Chalmers. It was a lot of fun, mapping outcrops and taking samples, panning for zircons and going to Stockholm to zap them with the ion probe in the basement of the National Natural History Museum. Then I wrestled with Word for a semester and finally boiled down the results in my one academic paper printed in GFF. Where you need a membership to search for it.


Episode 212: kv Talltitan – Vasa Sjukhus

District: Johanneberg

Photo date: 29 July 2021

The Chalmers campus has spread northwards too, down the hill towards the old asylum. In 1925, the only house here was the fantastically designed electrical substation by Conny Nyquist (page 140). Then came further physics and chemistry buildings in the 1970s, a microtech centre built by Skanska in the late 1990s and the student lodgings Chabo that was designed by the Wingårdh bureau and put up in 2005.

The Gibraltar Asylum, later hospital, was long feared and shunned as a final destination for the infirm and destitute. It was, however, a considerable improvement over the first asylums at Smedjegatan and Drottningtorget. The mentally ill were transferred to new premises in the 1930s and the hospital was in operation until 2000 when it was taken over by Chalmers and later various businesses.

Kvarteren Örnen, Svanen, Geten, Bleket, Gumsen, Lammet

Episodes 107 to 110 explore the industrial and social heritage in the middle part of Gårda. Most of it has been redeveloped, not once but twice – or more.

Episode 107: kv Örnen, kv Svanen

District: Gårda

Photo date: 14 March 2021

Almost all of the old industrial estate Gårda was demolished in the 1960s, to make way for the new motorway that bisects the eastern part of Gothenburg. New houses were erected in the 1980s, as close to the motorway as was deemed safe. Some of the earliest skyscrapers in Gothenburg were built here at that time too, now long since over-shadowed.

The middle part of district Gårda has been turned into an American-type commercial district with skyscraper offices. All this on marine and glacial clays next to a small river! The newest skyscrapers were finished in 2023 and are documented in Intermission part III.

Episode 108: kv Geten, kv Bleket

District: Gårda

Photo date: 14 March 2021

Just a handful of old houses in Gårda were preserved, listed or turned into a museum. Once the corona pandemic was over and forgotten, other museums opened up too, but the Belt Factory is still very much worth a visit! It’s full of old looms and stuff, and they sell some of their products too. Very useful when making tolkienist outfits.

Episode 109: kv Gumsen

District: Gårda

Photo date: 14 March 2021

The old Gårda was not just an industrial estate but also contained many tenement houses for its workers and their families. The school here was closed in 1977 – some ten years after the motorway right next to it had been opened! How could they let children roam there for so long? Anyway, the building seems not to have much of a future.

The parking garage is one of at least three from the post-modernist 1980s that I’ve seen so far on my ramblings. This one was decorated by Klas-Göran Tinbäck who appararently is still alive, at the time of writing (2023).

The firm Tomten not only manufactured detergents etc, but for some reason also sparklers. They are still known as Tomtebloss in Swedish and are branded enthuiastically at Christmas.

Episode 110: kv Lammet

District: Gårda

Photo date: 14 March 2021

Many of the factories in Gårda were built along the Mölndal Creek or River. It was used as a canal for transporting goods and also as a ditch for effluvia. Further up-river were several businesses that have left a very unpleasant chemical legacy in the river bottom. Dredging is quite hazardous but necessary, as the lower part of the river is very flood prone.

The Wool Yarn Factory has its own page at the Higab site.