Etikettarkiv: bridge

Vasabron, kvarteren Jungfrustigen, Gamla Latin, Engelska Kyrkan, Spruthuset

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Episodes 57 to 61 present various styles and architects that gave the city its look from the 1860s to the 1900s: neo-romanesque, neo-gothic and Jugend styles, by Gegerfelt, Edelsvärd, Peterson and Rasmussen. There is even a street here called Arkitektgatan.

Episode 57: Vasabron

District: Inom Vallgraven, from Västra Hamngatan to Ekelundsgatan

Photo date: 9 May and 16 August 2020

When new plans were drawn up for the city’s expansion south, it was decreed that Magasinsgatan should be extended over the moat and up the hills to the newly established villa town there. The new district south of the moat was to be called Vasastaden and then, naturally, the bridge for the new road was named the Vasa Bridge.

It was finally built in 1907 and Yngve Rasmussen designed it, with fantastic beasts in the currently fashionable style Jugend (Art Nouveau).

Episode 58: kv Jungfrustigen and the Victoria Bridge

District: Inom Vallgraven, from Västra Hamngatan to Ekelundsgatan

Photo date: 11 August 2020

The Social House was originally meant to be twice as big, in a full ellipse. Like many other ventures, though, it became far too expensive and only the one half was actually built. Perhaps the old Sahlgren Hospital would have stayed there longer if it had been bigger but probably not; the inner city is less conducive to care and recovery than the fresh winds of the countryside.

The building was designed by renowned architect Victor von Gegerfelt, who also built himself a house next door. The new addition for the university’s educational sciences department was built in 2004 and was designed by the Nyréns firm.

During the riots in 2001, when protests against the visiting George W Bush went violent, I was out looking at the proceedings (away from the flying stones and bullets). The police effectively protected the inner city from the rioters outside by barring all the bridges across the moat, like the Victoria Bridge here. The old methods are still relevant in our connected times. The day before, protesters had gathered at Drottningtorget because Bush was housed in the red hotel in Slusskvarnen. When my bus passed, I saw one guy on top of a car mooning Bush!

Episode 59: kv Gamla Latin and the Rosenlund Bridge

District: Inom Vallgraven, from Västra Hamngatan to Ekelundsgatan

Photo date: 11 August 2020

The Old Latin Highschool is now part of the Educational Sciences complex. It was built in 1857 in a style called neo-romanesque which became very popular with architects in the next decade. Many old public and residential buildings look just like it: yellow brick, rounded windows, lesenes dividing the facade into sections, brick crenelations under the roof… It was designed by city architect Hans Jakob Strömberg.

The building is still used as a school but it almost suffered the same fate as the old houses across the street, at least twice. There is a jazz club in the basement, Nefertiti, that is still in business despite the corona crisis and everything else. It is more than 50 years old now.

Episode 60: kv Engelska Kyrkan

District: Inom Vallgraven, from Västra Hamngatan to Ekelundsgatan

Photo date: 11 August 2020

Across from the Old Latin is the contemporary English Church, designed by Adolf Wilhelm Edelsvärd in almost the exact same style, only he preferred the angled windows of the neo-gothics to the rounded romanesques. I once got a guided tour of the interior and it is quite cramped. The style is much the same indoors with many dark-brown wooden details.

Next to the church is the Melin House which looks like an annexe but is in fact a private property unaffiliated with the church. It was built in 1872 and designed by J A Westerberg. A member of the St Andrews congregation bought it in 1900 and donated it to the YWCA.

And here is the house Victor von Gegerfelt built for himself, just before building himself another and prettier house on the hill to the south. Unlike that one, which was sacrificed to rampant development in the 1890s, this house still stands, a villa right in the middle of a busy city centre. It was built in 1874 and remained a private residence for a series of magnates until 2001 when the city finally bought it. The Educational Dept might be using it for management or representation but when you pass it by it still looks like a private residence.

Episode 61: kv Spruthuset

District: Inom Vallgraven, from Västra Hamngatan to Ekelundsgatan

Photo date: 11 August 2020

For a city deliberately founded as a trading post to bring in revenue for the Crown, it must have been natural to set up a school to train the future generations of merchants. So the trade school that was set up in Gothenburg in 1826 was the first one in Sweden. However, Fredberg points out that it was a foreigner who pushed for it, not a Swede. Oh the poor national pride…

After moving from one rented venue to the other for decades, in 1881 the boys moved to this new splendid building designed by Adrian Peterson. It was partially fincanced by monies from the Renström foundation, set up by magnate Sven Renström to support work in trade, health, education etc. His name lives on in many houses and institutions still extant today.

Apart from the school and the hose-house, there is also a preschool at this site today. Little do the toddlers and their keepers know that it is built on the ruins of a porno cinema…

Kvarteren Domkyrkan, Varuhuset, Larmtrumman, Saluhallen, Blomsterkvasten samt Grönsakstorget

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Episodes 52 to 56 document decorations on the Gothenburg Cathedral, and the area south of it. The cathedral is also called Gustavi Cathedral, after the founding king Gustav II Adolf. South of it are many shops, along the in-filled West Canal.

Episode 52: kv Domkyrkan

District: Inom Vallgraven, from Östra to Västra Hamngatan

Photo date: 30 May 2020

Work on the cathedral started just a few years after the foundation of the city and it was mostly destroyed in a fire in 1721. The restored church was destroyed in the fire of 1802 and the current building put up around 1815. It was designed by city architect Carl Wilhelm Carlberg and the outside, at least, is very much the same after 200 years. These days you can visit the tower, which I did in May 2022 during the Geek Pride Parade day. A very enthusiastic priest guided us around the bells, the joists, the hidden Dalek…

The area around the church used to be a cemetery until the Old Cemetery was established in Stampen around the time the new church was built. From the 17th century until the 1802 fire there also were houses along Västra Hamngatan and one of them was the ”gymnasium” — the contemporay trasnlation is ”highschool” but perhaps ”lyceum” might be more appropriate here. Whatever that is.

The well-house by Västra Hamngatan was built in 1816 and designed by Carlberg’s successor Jonas Hagberg. The water came from a spring many miles to the south and was sorely needed in this salty and polluted city. Tanneries, cattle, no sewage system, all built on marshy land… No wonder they drank so much beer in the old days.

Episode 53: kv Varuhuset

District: Inom Vallgraven, from Östra to Västra Hamngatan

Photo date: 20 June 2020

The refurbishments on the modernist corner house at Västra Hamngatan and the 1970s house next to it have since been completed. Not many decorations to note in Intermission, though, not even the big exterior thermometer that used to adorn the Ströms house.

The Dahlgren House was built by John Lyon in 1805 and sold to the Royal Bachelors Club in 1807. They again sold it to wholesaler Dahlgren who lived there until his death 40 years later. In my days, I remember it as the Nyberg hardware store; they set up shop there in 1905. The Meeths House was built by F O Peterson in 1910, after clearing away the older buildings put up by the iron traders Ekman & Co. City renewal is not a modern thing!

My father’s mother’s father’s father’s mother’s daughter in a previos marriage (known as aunt Lina) had a small shop at Vallgatan 26, where she sold ”fripperies”. My grandmother described the shop in her memoirs: ”Den 30.11.1859 gavs tillstånd till ‘Myndiga Pigan Maria Carolina Gunnarsson att idka nipperhandel i Göteborg’. Det innebar troligen, att hon sålde sk galanterivaror, smycken och även begagnade kläder i kommission. I ett litet rum bakom affären kokade hon sitt kaffe i kakelugnen i en liten kopparpanna på trefot.”

Episode 54: kv Larmtrumman

District: Inom Vallgraven, from Östra to Västra Hamngatan

Photo date: 20 June 2020

Not much to add to the narration in the video. My sources are all in books and the websites don’t mention this block at all, despite all the decorations. It’s all shops, shops, shops.

Episode 55: kv Saluhallen and Bazarbron

District: Inom Vallgraven, from Östra to Västra Hamngatan

Photo date: 19 August 2020

Here is a postcard of the Bazaar Bridge in the 1900s. I have no real memories of the old market hall house that caused such uproar when it was demolished, but I have all the more memories of the cineplex. In the basement are toilets, smaller theatres and the remains of the bastions.

The house with the cupola, where the Chinese consulate resides since 2004, was built in 1850 and designed by Heinrich Kaufmann. One of all the many banks bought it in 1891 and redecorated it, with the cupola and gates as well as the interior. It is/was called the Eckerstein House after the bookshop that resided there from 1975 to 1991. It was the university bookshop with more hardcore books than the light entertainment mostly sold elsewhere. But if I look back, even minor bookshops had better and wider selections than the simple fare on offer today.

Episode 56: kv Blomsterkvasten and Grönsakstorget

District: Inom Vallgraven, from Östra to Västra Hamngatan

Photo date: 9 May and 16 August 2020

The houses along Västra Hamngatan were built and designed by August Krüger. The street itself was created when the old West Canal was filled in in 1907. It had long been a rather neglected canal, despite the proximity to finance and bishop; it was only clad with stone in the 1850s and the stagnant water gave it the name Filth Canal. If you look at the stone wall along the moat, you can see where the old canal emerged, because the stones are different.

The Vegetable Square is laid out on a stretch of city wall between the bastions Johannes Dux and Carolus Dux. Until the 1830s there used to be a rope-walk running over what is now the square; it was set up in 1746, the time of the Eastindia merchantmen. There was also a garden here, so it probably seemed logical for the powers that were to locate the vegetable market here, when they decided to regulate open commerce in the 1870s. The meat market was directed to the King’s Square and the the fish market away from city hall, to Pustervik.

Kvarteren Klensmeden, Manegen, Bastionen, Vattenkällan, Gamleport samt Kungsportsbron

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Episodes 37 to 41 stroll along the moat and the filled-in East Canal. There are reminders of the city’s military past in the shape of the former bastions, and of older types of entertainment like circuses and cinemas.

Episode 37: kv Klensmeden

District: Inom Vallgraven, from Vallgraven to Östra Hamngatan

Photo date: 1 and 3 May 2020

Here is another block that was split in two by a fire-break after 1792. The eastern half is today a shopping complex while the western part, especially along Östra Hamngatan, retains some of the old 19th century facades. Originally, all the houses were lower, though, no more than two storeys. In photos from the 1870s, the city looks so tiny.

There used to be many cinemas in Gothenburg and there was one in this block. With the advent of television and home videos, most of the cinemas went bankrupt and closed. In 1984 Cosmorama was turned into a regular theatre but that didn’t help and today it is a shop.

Next to it is the hulk of another Gothenburg stalwart, the Bräutigams bakery and coffee-shop. The house was built in 1911 and designed by Arvid Bjerke. The firm still exists but these days they only make sweets and chooclates, with a small outlet in Haga or seasonal pop-up booths. If you talk about the old coffee-shop, though, everyone will mention the live piano music for which it was famed, even when I was a kid.

Episode 38: kv Manegen

District: Inom Vallgraven, from Vallgraven to Östra Hamngatan

Photo date: 3 May 2020

History is rich in this block. The paddock at Östra Larmgatan 16 was set up in 1824, on the ruins of the old city wall, It operated for half a century and was apparently often let to travelling circuses. Around 1880 the horsey enterprise had to move to another paddock in Lorensberg, because August Abrahamson bought the property and put up a fabulous office and warehouse building on it. That house, designed by Adrian Peterson, is still standing and the facade is much the same even if the businesses in it come and go.

The building for the clerks’ union was designed by Hans Hedlund and built by Joachim Dähn. It was used for trade-union and political activities and also had a hotel. When the union moved out in the late 1980s, the University took over and refurbished the house. They are also long gone, however, and today it is used by the Jensen highschool-chain. Highschools is a booming and lucrative business in Sweden.

And the corner house at Östra Larmgatan 18 with the big round balcony was built in 1856 by August Krüger as a residential building. In the 1920s it was re-designed with a meeting hall for the Royal Bachelors Club and on the bottom floor a restaurant that has since given the popular name to the whole block: Gamle Port.

Episode 39: kv Bastionen

District: Inom Vallgraven, from Vallgraven to Östra Hamngatan

Photo date: 3 May 2020

The Palladium cinema closed in 2008, after 90 years and a plethora of blockbusters. I saw ”Raiders of the Lost Ark” here, laughed at Bruce Willis in ”Die Hard” when the sound system broke down (the scene with the screaming lady as the lift doors open to reveal the dead terrorist and ”now I have a machine gun ho-ho-ho” is very funny when completely silent), and goggled at the person cosplaying Gollum at the premiere of ”The Return of the King” in December 2003, among many, many other enjoyable cinema experiences (and some less enjoyable, like ”Sky Pirates” which we endured in the top floor annex Lilla Palladium).

The house itself was first put up in 1858. In 1917 it was rebuilt as a cinema, designed by Otto Dymling and P Nilsson. There were originally 1028 seats but during subsequent refurbishments, among other things for the Cinemascope screen in 1954, the number dwindled to just 700 when it closed.

Episode 40: kv Vattenkällan, kv Gamleport

District: Inom Vallgraven, from Vallgraven to Östra Hamngatan

Photo date: 22 March and 3-9 May 2020

The so-called Hennig House occupies all of the block called Old-gate, and it was built in 1846 from designs by Carl Georg Brunius. Textiles firm Johansson & Carlander (who also put their mark on the Sahlgren House at Norra Hamngatan) bought the house in 1885. The granite decorations were added in a 1920s refurbishment.

Centrumhuset occupies all of the block called The Water Well. It was designed by Nils Einar Eriksson and built in 1938 to house various businesses. And so it does to this day.

Between these two houses stands a statue of king Karl IX, father of Gustav II Adolf. He built the first town called Göteborg, on the north shore of river Göta Älv. The Danes promptly burned it down, though, and caused a lot of other mayhem in the first decade of the 17th century. The area between the houses also used to hold a water cistern and a loop of the East Canal that entered the moat between Old-gate and Bastion. You can see them in old photos and pictures, which also show the old houses in the Water Well block.

Episode 41: Kungsportsbron

District: Inom Vallgraven, from Vallgraven to Östra Hamngatan

Photo date: 22 March and 12 July 2020

In the 17th century, the city wall had three gates: the Old or Kings’s gate at this spot, the New or Queen’s gate in the east, and the Charles or Hållgård gate in the west. In Dahlberg’s drawings from those days, the gates look large and imposing, towering over the prancing dandies and dogs in the foreground. But looking at actual dimensions in reality, they must have been quite small, admitting one cart at a time.

This new Kingsgate Bridge from 1900 was designed by Eugen Thorburn. The granite is from Bohuslän and the grand candelabra were originally lit by gas. It must have geen really grand when it opened in 1901. Much better than the old wooden bridge a hundred years earlier and the narrow stone bridge it had just replaced.

Östra Nordstaden, längs Älvstranden, broar längs Hamnkanalen

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Episodes 22 to 24 mostly contain modern buildings and structures. The city was subject to ”total sanitation” in the 1960s and 1970s, when the politicians and civil servants decreed that old was bad, everything older than 30 years shold be razed and modern concrete boxes be put up instead. The city of my childhood consisted in large parts of demolition sites.

Episode 22: Östra Nordstaden

District: Östra Nordstaden

Photo date: 5 and 18 April 2020

In 1972 this business and shopping precinct was opened. The building work had destroyed every old house except a couple in the extreme southeast corner, and dug up all the archaological remains like the old bastion and sections of moat that once stood here. All gone.

Until 1938, one of the run-down streets held Gothenburg’s only Catholic church, St Joseph. That year, the new church next to Heden was opened. The rest of the area was mostly given over to warehouses, after the emigrant rush was over. Of the ten blocks named in 1923, only five remain today: Hövågen, Klädpressaren, Köpmannen, Drottningtorget and Kronobageriet.

The city before the mid-1960s looks completely different from the city of the mid-noughties. And that city looks completely different from the one today, because of all the skyscrapers that have mushroomed in the last couple of years.

Episode 23: Lilla Bommen, Nya Operan, kv Magasinet, kv Packhuset

District: Östra and Västra Nordstaden

Photo date: 18 April and 27 June 2020

The water-front has been completely transformed several times. In the 1980s, the old warehouses were torn down and our first skyscraper erected instead. Compared to the ones sprouting today, it is quite small… Ralph Erskine designed it for Skanska. Due to its colours, and because it once held offices for the see (”stift”) it was quickly dubbed Läppstiftet (”lipstick”).

Some ten years later, a new opera house was built on the ruins of the old prison, itself built on the ruins of the bastion St Erik. The public could contribute funding and in return got a token signed by the city council at the time. My grandmother sent in some money in the name of her family’s old shop and we still have that piece of paper.

Further along are some remnants of the once bustling harbour. A maritime museum still lines the quay, which is in need of maintenance and climate change security adjustments. And of course, the ”new” customs house has ironically been turned into a casino. (The newest customs office moved to Östra Nordstaden when it was built, along with all the banks.)

Episode 24: broar längs Stora Hamnkanalen

District: Västra and Östra Nordstaden

Photo date: 17 November 2019 to 7 July 2020

The city was originally laid out with the help of Dutch engineers, which meant canals and bridges. All the bridges have been rebuilt at least once and all but one of the canals have been filled in. Before the Lock was built in 1873, there was also a water-mill where the Paupers’ Creek enters the canal system, just inside the old city wall. Until a few years ago, I had no idea about this.